Today, it seems like French rhum is synonymous with agricole, but its dominance really only came about over the past century. Before that, while these were still productive sugar colonies making sugar, and as a byproduct, molasses, rum made from molasses was far more common. Rhum grand arôme (in English, “big flavor rum”), is still produced today, and was used by the French to blend and flavor food and spirits much like Germans used Jamaican rum. They even use dunder from previous distillations to drive up the esters, just like some Jamaican distilleries. As you know, I am a big fan of Jamaican rum, so it was very exciting to try this kind for the first time.

Review

I tasted this rum alongside the Mhoba from Velier and Clairin Communal.

Smell

The initial hit is of briny kalamata olives. Salty, savory, and fruity. Mhoba is also rich and savory, but more industrial rubbery. Clairin Communal is lighter on the nose, and is a mix of olive brine and overripe banana funk. Of the three, Savanna is probably the most bright, while smelling both salty and fruity.

Taste

The initial flavor is very intense. Like when I try Hampden’s higher ester rums neat, the taste is just burnt rubber as my palate is overwhelmed. Trying a little bit diluted, it opens up with wild berries and briny olives, but maintains a bit of bitterness. It has a very long finish, much like many Hampden rums. I can taste it half an hour later. Clairin Communal is quite close in flavor profile, with similar olive and fruit notes, but is much lighter in flavor, though it benefits from not having a slightly bitter aftertaste. Mhoba is not far off in flavor, but it has stronger savory and slightly plasticky notes, and it’s not fruity at all. I would say it reads more grassy than olives.

The daiquiris for all of these were a treat. I did say that I like Clairin Communal daiquiris when I reviewed it recently. It’s not super complicated, but it’s just a nice, tasty, not overly complex daiquiri. Savanna definitely makes a more complex daiquiri; I have to stop and think after every sip. The slightly salty, slightly bitter wild berry flavor really accents the sweetness and lime nicely, and in general it benefits from being diluted.

Verdict 7.75/10

I definitely enjoyed this rum mixed more than I liked it neat, and I can see why this was used in blending. The raw product has so much intensity, but in a cocktail, it makes you stop and think after every sip. It’s a fascinating and well-made rum, filled with so much flavor that I am still not sure if I have figured it all out. 7.75/10